Thursday, September 8, 2011

Philadelphia

Am currently at Philadelphia attending the World Tea Expo East. Sorry for not editing and updating my Europe journey. Still in the works, trying to make sense of 2000 photos and tons of dairy entries.

Will get to it, next week. Until then, keep your umbrellas handy, Philadelphia is swimming in water. Ingrid

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Paris Day 2 Versailles

Murphys law kicking in; trouble in the Metro; no connections to Versailles the usual way; am already en route; so follow the confused crowds, attach myself to a spanish group which are charming and somehow we all end up after 2 hours at Versailles.

I started early, they say the crowds are less; ya wrong!

Decide to go to the gardens first and am walking to the Trianons and Marie Antoinettes estate: am dissapointed; the flowers are not kept well; everything looks so neglected; actually everywhere: the fountains are not working and I guess I expected more.

Had a lovely lunch La Flotille inside the grounds and finally decided to check out the Chateaux: Not sure what I expected,aside the throngs of people some of the rooms of course are simple gorgeous; but most of it is just paintings on the wall: I have seen more opulence in the Imperial rooms in Vienna: I loved the wall decorations; and I was actually surprised that cameras where allowed:

Maybe; when I look back on the photos, I will put it all together in my mind. On the train home I opened a tourist guide of the City of Versailles; I think I would have enjoyed that more.

Ready to have a glass of houswine at Irene et Bernard.

Tomorrow the other part of Paris; hop on and off and a list of tearooms and a boat trip on the Seine.

Paris Day 1 en pied

Have a lovely postagestamp size room in Montmatre; close to metro so still decided that was going my walking day: With map in hand, my aim was to get to Sacre Ceour per foot and then see: Walking along Rue de Clichy found this internet cafe, so here I am trying to cope with the french keyboard:
Rue de Clichy gets you to Place de Clichy and heading left on Rue Coulaincourt takes you to the Cemetiere Montmatre, what an interesting but oppresive place: Final resting place of many famous people like Zola; Guitry,Dalinda a chaunteusse very much remebered by the Parisiens; counting the fresh flowers and notes. After a while the starkness of the place gets to you; no wonder all the vampire movies were shot her; perfect for it:

Back on the road stopped at a bakery and got myself une baquette de brie and found this little road called avenue Junot winding its way to the back of Sacre Coeur: Beautiful morning; am the only non parisienne for now; and couple of turns and here they are; the buses; the taxies, the throngs of tourists; like sardines. Getting closer to the church you pass thru all kinds of tourist traps they call Montmatre; and I swore I was not going to fall into the usual trap of getting my portrait sketched..... alas a very charming french man decides to cut my profile out of paper; like a scherenschnitt, and got his euros as he hoped.

The church is beautiful; but again no pictures allowed and they were strict; they escorded offenders out:

Decided to walk down the steps, so going the way people usually come up, eating my baquette and watching police watching thieves.

Decide to go on: continue on Boulevard de Rochechouart and heqd towards Place Pigale; conitinue on pilgram!

Rue Jean Batiste Pigale heads towards Galerie LaFayette; got to get there, shopping? I think not! Walk past Trinite towards Place d`Opera; check in the tourist office and get ,myself tickets to Versaille, train and a 2day hop on and off pass. With a Starbucks frapucino and new energy pass by Palace Royale and find myself at the Louvre on the Tuileries side. Louvre another day; so walk Jardin des Tuileries towards Place de la Concorde.

Decide not to continue on the Champ Elyses; this is for another day. Instead decide to walk Rue Royale towards Madeleine::::: what do I see:::: LADURE!!!

60 euros lighter, got the book; some macarons and some to die for chocolate concoction:

Past Madeleine along BD Maleherbes takes me to place St: Augustine: take a little road called Rue Vienne to Place LEurope, this right beside Gare St Lazaare; and Rue Saint Petersburg brings me back to Place de Clichy: and back to hotel.

Dinner at Irenes and Bernards; a small, quaint neighbourhood brasserie with the most delicious food and athmosphere:

Tomorrow Versaille!

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Zurich

Arrived early, check in not till 3 pm and truly, I did not get my room until evening. So got myself a Zurich Card (A MUST) deposited luggage at hotel and off I went.

Fleemarket first stop, oh what fun, just like any old market with lots of chunk and nice things in between. Then walked along the lake to Museum Riedberg, it is a bit of a hike, but beautiful scenery and was lucky to be able a special exhibition of miniature paintings of about 40 artists from India 1100 to 1900, for some you needed a magnifying glass that one rented. Their regular collection spans all continents except Europe, very interesting and made a few photos of Quan Yin.

My next stop was Zunfthaus Meisen, which had a small collection of Zurich based Meisen china, small but interesting collection... opposite Fraumunster Church with the famous Chagall Windows. NO Cameras allowed and boy were they alert. Across the bridge, is Grossmunster Church, again beautiful stained glass windows using sliced agate stones, upsolutely mesmerizing. No cameras.

Then I decided to climb the tower, hmmm, imagine, 40 degrees and humid, 187 steps to the top.... purgatory. But I made it and got a lovely few of Zurich, roof top gardens (would that be lovely), watching the Limmat Swimmrace from above... more about that.

All day I had been watching people jumping into the Limmat with giant yellow rubber duckies and the accompanying announcements, apparently one big event today. Boy would I have loved to jump in too, perfect day for that.

Along my walk, came across H Schwaryenbach Kolonial Store and Tea-coffee house. YES finally a proper tea house. Huge collection of tea, the range from China, Japan, Nepal, Taiwan, Africa, India, etc. Got myself a delicious Oolong from Anxi, about 30 percent oxidized, delicious in aroma and bouquet.... a bit cool. So I asked some questions and found out they cool down the water, but I was very impressed because they weight the tea.

I asked her to steep again, full heat and only 3 minutes and then showed her why, we had a great discussion, alas, Zurich sleeps on Sunday and everything is closed.

Later found another teastore called Tea from the 7 seas, but it was after store hours.

Dinner search finally found myself in a little gasthof and had some not so good Gschnelztes and Roestli. Food is horrifically expensive. I bought a bottle of water in a grocery store. CHF 3.00 that is about 3 dollars.

Took a small boatride on the Limmat into Lake Zurich and walked again the promenade homewards. Different feel now, it is after hours and Zurich is at the lake, making use of the free beaches and parks. Bycicles everywhere, dogs, kids, etc, what a pleasant way to spend Saturday evening.

By now I am pooped and head back to hotel, finally check in, get myself a fan, because the AC as promised did not materialize.

It is Sunday morning now, non described breakfast, the least I enjoyed, for the prize I am paying for this room, it should have been a queens breakfast, also, my room faced the mainroad and even with earplugs I got little sleep. Needless to say, I am a bit crumpy this morning.

A few more hours and then off to train station to board train to Paris.....

So Ade from Zurich and Hello Paris. Ingrid

Friday, August 19, 2011

St Gallen,Switzerland

Gruetzi! After a few twists and turns arrived hot and tired in St. Gallen. Staying at the Walhalla Hotel, a Best Western, straight across the trainstation. Getting smarter in booking hotels. Early evening for me.
This morning I was up at my usual 6 am wake-up, indulged in a scrumptious breakfast, like the Austrians, the Swiss know how to put on breakfast. Started walking and taking some early morning pictures, only people going to work, no tourists yet and stumbled across St. Gallens Friday Farmers Market.... do I have a nose for this. Ah, flowers, vegis, smoked meat, cheese and more cheese. Got myself some fresh yoghurt, what I thought was bretzel sticks that turned in to a sweet stick filled with walnuts.... yummy. Some cheese and freshly pressed apple cider.

Got my hair done at a Hairdresser training school for 29 CHF, which is par with Cdn $, about 50% of what it would have cost me at a regular salon. Switzerland is very, VERY expensive.

Off to the Lace Museum, oh what gorgeous things, alas, no photos allowed, in fact I had to put my purse in the locker. Sight and senses overload, such beautiful things to look at. I wish they had a catalogue, like most museums of their collection, but they don`t.

Proceed to walk the old town, stopping at a fancy kitchen store, and buy cookie cutters.... hmm.

Next stop a bookstore, as usual I buy way too many cook books. All along photographing, churches and ornamental window erkers (boxes, like for a baywindow). They are hundreds of years old and St. Gallen is one of the few cities that preserves them, they are breathtaking.

AH, a Tea salon (found 2 more stores only today), this one sounds promising. In I go and look over the tea menu, nothing special but I settle on a China black they call Prince of Wales and order an Apricote tarte with Rahm (cream). Tea arrives.... you got to be kidding me.... it is a Twinnings tea bag... it is costing me CHF 4.60 that is $4.60 for a teabag? This has been the most expensive tea bag so far...lol. The pastry was lovely, price a cool CHF 7.80.

The other 2 stores were a mixed bag, one was a souvenir store that also carried tea, in proper tins etc and of course a lot of herbals. The other was a tea and spice store. Tasted a lovely Rooibos, properly stored tea and some tea in handy Paper teabags, but where are they next too.... spices. Hate to have a greentea that tastes like garlic.

As the day progresses, the town is getting a make over for a Musical Festival that is startinting tonight at 7 pm for 2 days. Glad I took pictures earlier, hard to get close to anything, but you must imaging, the streets are narrow, most of old St. Gallen has only foot traffic, because everyone sits outside in the cafes. Setting up for the festival and music stations, heavy machinary is being brought in, how they manage not to run someone over of roll over the chairs and tables on the sidewalks is a miracle.

Going to one of the festivities, but don`t think too long. Have an early start again tomorrow, travelling a short distance to Bodensee and taking a boattrip for the better part of the day.

Ade, Ingrid

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Slovenija and Kroatia

When I was little, both countries still belonged to Yugoslavija. I spend my Summer holidays sometimes in Slovenija with my cousins who are my hosts for this part of my trip. Yesterday we took the trip to the Weekend house, or as we say to the cottage. 2.5 hours later, not much different then most of us do, we arrived in the close to the Kroatian border, about 40 km from Zagreb.

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, too was a childhood haunt, I spent alternate summers there. So my command of the slavic language was a mixture of both languages, much to the amusement of both sides.

After the war not too long ago, Yugoslavija was divided and Slovenija was the first of the states that gained independance and also entry to the EU. Kroatia has not been accepted yet.

Today we wanted to cross over the border, now when I say border I mean a street, a field a river, a railway, maybe 25 m in all. Local border crossings for people living in the area do not apply to visitors like myself. We were turned away because I carried a Canadian Passport, we had to find an international border crossing. We did, 20 minutes later. The drive was beautiful, the countryside is something to behold, hills and valleys, small mountains, each topped by churches. Countryroads hugging vineyards, marches and an abundance of flowers, corn and wine.

The food has balkan flavour, rich and spicy, portions large enough for 2 people and always starts with a soup of some kind. Forest mushroom soup, and Kettlegulash with 4 different types of meet today... pork, beef, deer and mutton. Absolutely divine. Tomorrow more of the same. I am a culinary heaven, remembering the most pleasant events of my childhood. Hugs Ingrid










Wednesday, August 10, 2011

South of Austria and Slovenija

I know it has been awhile, I am having challenges with uploads for sure. Sometime they work, mostly not.

A few days ago arrived in Villach, the town I was born in and stayed in a famous hotel in the centre of town. One always has these memories of wanting to do something growing up and I always had wanted to spend a night there. Of course that would have been crazy and was not possible. So my expectations were high and I was in for a disappointment. I loved the food and service, I did not like my room, it felt I was sleeping in a nunnery.

Met with schoolfriends and ate delicious local culinary specialties, having fun with beer tastings and glad that I brought my teas, just not the thing here, but coffee is delicious.

Travelling between Villach and Jesenice, a border town in Slovenija where I have family. Wedged in between mountains, hugging the slopes, memories of childhood vacations spend there are resurfing and the story telling is abundant.. Remember when and so on. We drove to Bled to simple see it again, as a teenager, my cousine and her friends we walked the route roughly 20 km. I remember it as a sleepy town by the lake, local fishermen taking you to the island and the castle left untouched. Local tourism and a Sunday trip to eat the famous custard napoleon and have turkish coffee.

Today it is a tourist town, every nook and crany field with hotels, motels, private homes, shops and more shops.... including a teashoppe called Jamine. I bought a nice little gadget to attach to a teasack to hang and a proper tea thermometer. Great for travelling. Of course we had the same pastry and it was delicious. Now the castle is open for tours and we wanted to have a coffee and take the view. 8 euros per person just to get through the gates to sit on the terrace... I think not, so we enjoyed the climb up and down. Parking lot full of tour buses, it no longer is a sleepy town.

Today traveling over the mountains back to Villach to finish off some things and to enjoy an outdoor concert on the banks of the river Drau, that divides my hometown in half. The concert is free, a gift from the major each year to the towns citizens and tourists. Weather will hold and it will be a beautiful event, probably ending with fireworks.

Plans are to travel to a Spa near the Croatian border, my cousine has a summer home and we will spend the weekend there. Monday, my journey begins anew, and will be off to Innsbruck with a sidetrip to Wattens, to view the Swarovski Crytalmountain.

Until then, Ingrid

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Vienna

Had the most awesome day in Vienna, spend a night with my friend and sipped Wheat beer along the quai of the Danube canal. Chantarelles Salad for dinner with homemad bread and "grammelfett" an Austrian specialty. This morning deposited my luggage in a locker and off I went to the centre of town, where the St Stefan´s cathedral stands. Found the teashop I wanted to find, but on the way found a most interesting Tea Salon with a tasting room. Sampled a beautiful 1st flush Darjeeling and made friends with the owner. I will post the pictures some other time. I am having difficulty with uploads. Lunch the typical Wienerschnitzel am Nashmarkt, sort of a market with lots of specialty stands.
It took me lots of questions and 2 hours to find Suessi, the French tea salon. Well, when I found it, it was this very tiny tea place, not much bigger than my hall, but very French! Turns out that one of the owners studied in Toronto for 8 years. What a small world it is. Suessi is the Austrian store representing Marriage Frere of Paris. (forgive my spelling). Drank a green Oolong with a touch of Lavender, my goodchild sampled a Vanilla Sencha, not bad. They were out of macroons, and so we only had tea. Back to centre of down to see some of the typical sites and an afternoon delight of Icecream at an Italien Ice Salon... yummy. Then via train to a down in Styria, which will be home base until Monday.
So far I sampled more wine and beer and local cuisine than tea... but that is most enjoyable too.

Talk to you soon, oh btw, my facebook might not always work, so I will use my blogsite more often.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

I have started to pack. Since I am travelling a lot solo and traversing Europe mostly by train, my aim is to pack "light". So far, I am doing well. I might not even have to check in any luggage. Still not sure about taking a camera and a camcorder. Both have it's uses.

Doing more research on places to go. Slight change in plans already. Will stay in Vienna over night at a childhood friends apartment. Then take the next day to visit 3 tea establishments.... I found tea lounges in Vienna... they were not there 5 years ago. This will be such a treat. One just around St Stefansdom, another close the Operngasse, called Suessi, saw pictures already, and my mouth is already watering from all the pastries I saw. It will be nice to compare Viennese Macarons to the Parisian kind. A third place,my friend will find out more about first.

Still lots of other plans for this week. It's amazing how time speeds up. Today, managed to pick some raspberries, green and yellow beans, peas and also early potatoes. It was a beautiful morning, cool breeze, perfect picking weather. Having an assortment of my mornings work for dinner and most definitely raspberries with icecream.

Brushing up on my french, have forgotten so much, but I am sure it will come back as soon as I hear it spoken all around me. Bought book of the most common "phrases" , it looks promising.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Europe with a purpose

10 days, and I will fly to Vienna and a month of homage to my roots and discovering parts of Europe new to me. It has been over 4 years since I have been back. I no longer own a place to stay. I don't like to second guess decision, but I think I would have loved to be able to just "go to my childhood home" for a spell.

However, this leaves me free to roam and that is my plan.

Leaving Toronto on August 1 to arrive in Vienna the next day. Train to my cousin, which will be homebase for a while. Not spending a lot of time, off to enjoy the company of my cousin in Slovenia... I know they have surprises in store. Plans to visit Wattens in Tirol, I am a Swarovsky fan and always wanted to visit Kristallberg. Side trips to Italy, hopefully Milano or Bologna, I do want to dip my feet into the sea.

Taking mostly trains, that way you get to see things. Plans on passing through Switzerland to Lyon and then taking train to Paris. Hotel is booked from August 21-25, nice little hotel in the middle of Montmatre.... can't wait to walk the streets.

Taking Eurostar to London on 25 to stay in a flat around Kings Cross. Easy access to everything. Meeting Jane Petigrew and Denise, some friends from ATAA.

Have a loose itinerary, not beholden to anyone, just myself taking a well deserved break.

Hoping to blog while on route, never done this before, so will see what happens.

Until then, Ingrid